Uluwatu, Dreamland, Padang Padang, Bingin

These beaches were formerly the playground of surfers almost exclusively. The former teak forest was only accessible over rough dirt tracks and the hike down to some of the beaches deterred just about everyone but the most dedicated wave riders.

This is no longer true. A number of developments planned on the barren bukit have meant that tarred roads have been put in, and slowly steps and access paths have been built down to the more popular beaches. This means that virtually anyone can take advantage of these stunning beaches, which are still very quite by Bali's standards.

Small warungs offer simple food and cold drinks, the obligatory massage people have moved in and a few sellers offer basic Bali merchandise. When the surf's up you can catch some world-class rides, when there is no surf the beaches become quiet lagoons with crystal clear water lapping the white sand.

Uluwatu is still the busiest, particularly at sunset when the monkeys play on the spectacularly located temple. Very basic accommodation is available at most of the bukit beaches.